The east coast’s great natural harbour city sits above some of the finest white-sand beaches in Asia – Nilaveli and Uppuveli are wide, clear, and remarkably uncrowded even at the height of the May to September east coast season. The Koneswaram Temple on Swami Rock, dramatically positioned on a headland above the harbour, and the offshore whale watching season from Trincomalee add cultural and wildlife dimensions to a coastal destination that most travellers discover later than they should.